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My Quarantine Procedures

We have all been warned to quarantine new birds before introducing them to our existing birds, and if you have kept birds for any length of time, you know why. I always encourage novices to quarantine for at least one month, preferably two. I know that most novices will not quarantine for three months - most experienced keepers don't quarantine that long either (myself included unless I have specific reasons to do so). However, how long you choose to quarantine for is completely up to you, and your decision will always be based on how much is at risk and how much risk you are willing to take. That risk includes the risk of lost work on your line of selectively bred birds, the risk of financial loss based on the value of the birds, the risk of losing irreplaceable birds, and the risk of emotional loss if you are attached to your existing birds. I don't lecture on quarantine procedures or pass judgment on them because everyone assesses these risks differently.

In the past, I have been opposed to administering medications routinely during quarantine. However, in light of recent findings, I have to rethink that position.

Since learning to use a microscope, I have discovered that new birds frequently do come in carrying illness or the potential for illness. I frequently discover problems like Coccidia and protozoa in visibly healthy newly purchased birds. I also occasionally see Avian Gastric Yeast (Megabacteria) and Candida in new birds. Don't assume that because you bought from a trusted source that this won't happen to you. Even the best breeders can have birds carrying these problems without showing symptoms.

We cannot take comfort in long quarantines, either. Birds can carry many of these problems without showing any symptoms for long periods. In some cases, they can carry these problems for life without showing symptoms. That does not mean it is safe for them to go on carrying these problems. Should stress arise, these problems can cycle out of control and overtake the bird. These problems may also be passed to other birds in the flock who do not have as many natural immunities to them. Thus, a new bird may be introduced and then (sometimes after many months have passed), gradually you start losing other birds. Since the new bird still appears healthy and some time has passed, you may never suspect that this bird is the source of the problem.

Because of these issues, I use a microscope as part of my quarantine procedures (See the Procedure: Preparing a Fecal Smear). Remember, a bare-bones microscope good enough for this purpose (400x magnification) can be had new for around $100 on eBay, so in most cases, money should not be an obstacle (a pair of Gouldian finches will cost you more than the microscope you use to ensure the health of your entire flock). It does take a little practice, but if you are serious about it, you will figure it out. However, by using a microscope during quarantine, I can use the appropriate medications when they are needed but can refrain from treating healthy birds unnecessarily.

I test the droppings of newly acquired birds a few times during quarantine. I like to test at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of quarantine, in case I miss something or something is only being shed sporadically. I test in the beginning, so I can begin treatment right away if I find something. I test again in the middle, so if something new shows up, I can still make use of existing quarantine time to treat. I test at the end, just to make sure there is nothing there before introducing the new bird to my flock. If I actually find something, then I test more often to monitor the status of the bird. I also quarantine longer to make sure once the problem is eradicated, it does not return.

Is this a perfect plan? Is there ever a perfect plan? Infected birds can still slip through if I miss the signs in the droppings or if the signs are shed intermittently or if I treat for the problem and believe I have eliminated it, but it still exists in small numbers. However, it is better than doing nothing and it is a good alternative to treating every bird with every medication you can think of regardless of whether or not he has the problem.

For those without any desire to use a microscope, using drugs in your quarantine procedure may be the wise course of action. It is not a course of action that I like, but after seeing what might be coming in with new birds from quality sources, I cannot advise against it. The decision, of course, lies with the fancier - just be aware that these problems may be coming in more often than you might think.

But what about bacterial problems and viruses and such? Those who are really serious can learn how to do gram stains and cultures and such, which may help with some problems. This takes a lot more work and expertise as well as specialized materials. However, in my experience, these problems act more quickly and symptoms show up more quickly. Thus, if you quarantine for an adequate period of time, these problems should surface before the bird is introduced to your flock. In one month, many of these problems will have surfaced. In two months, most of the rest of the potential problems will have surfaced. There is always the exception as well as the potential of a bird being a carrier of a specific problem - not getting sick itself but capable of spreading the problem to other birds. Thus, there never are any guarantees no matter how long you quarantine. The risk will always be there, it is just a question of how far are you willing to go to reduce it even further.


Use the information provided herein at your own risk. When in doubt, consult a qualified avian veterinarian.

 

 

 
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