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My
Quarantine Procedures
We
have all been warned to quarantine new birds before introducing
them to our existing birds, and if you have kept birds for
any length of time, you know why. I always encourage novices
to quarantine for at least one month, preferably two. I know
that most novices will not quarantine for three months - most
experienced keepers don't quarantine that long either (myself
included unless I have specific reasons to do so). However,
how long you choose to quarantine for is completely up to
you, and your decision will always be based on how much is
at risk and how much risk you are willing to take. That risk
includes the risk of lost work on your line of selectively
bred birds, the risk of financial loss based on the value
of the birds, the risk of losing irreplaceable birds, and
the risk of emotional loss if you are attached to your existing
birds. I don't lecture on quarantine procedures or pass judgment
on them because everyone assesses these risks differently.
In the
past, I have been opposed to administering medications routinely
during quarantine. However, in light of recent findings, I
have to rethink that position.
Since
learning to use a microscope, I have discovered that new birds
frequently do come in carrying illness or the potential for
illness. I frequently discover problems like Coccidia and
protozoa in visibly healthy newly purchased birds. I also
occasionally see Avian Gastric Yeast (Megabacteria) and Candida
in new birds. Don't assume that because you bought from a
trusted source that this won't happen to you. Even the best
breeders can have birds carrying these problems without showing
symptoms.
We cannot
take comfort in long quarantines, either. Birds can carry
many of these problems without showing any symptoms for long
periods. In some cases, they can carry these problems for
life without showing symptoms. That does not mean it is safe
for them to go on carrying these problems. Should stress arise,
these problems can cycle out of control and overtake the bird.
These problems may also be passed to other birds in the flock
who do not have as many natural immunities to them. Thus,
a new bird may be introduced and then (sometimes after many
months have passed), gradually you start losing other birds.
Since the new bird still appears healthy and some time has
passed, you may never suspect that this bird is the source
of the problem.
Because
of these issues, I use a microscope as part of my quarantine
procedures (See the Procedure: Preparing
a Fecal Smear). Remember, a bare-bones microscope good
enough for this purpose (400x magnification) can be had new
for around $100 on eBay, so in most cases, money should not
be an obstacle (a pair of Gouldian finches will cost you more
than the microscope you use to ensure the health of your entire
flock). It does take a little practice, but if you are serious
about it, you will figure it out. However, by using a microscope
during quarantine, I can use the appropriate medications when
they are needed but can refrain from treating healthy birds
unnecessarily.
I test
the droppings of newly acquired birds a few times during quarantine.
I like to test at the beginning, in the middle, and at the
end of quarantine, in case I miss something or something is
only being shed sporadically. I test in the beginning, so
I can begin treatment right away if I find something. I test
again in the middle, so if something new shows up, I can still
make use of existing quarantine time to treat. I test at the
end, just to make sure there is nothing there before introducing
the new bird to my flock. If I actually find something, then
I test more often to monitor the status of the bird. I also
quarantine longer to make sure once the problem is eradicated,
it does not return.
Is this
a perfect plan? Is there ever a perfect plan? Infected birds
can still slip through if I miss the signs in the droppings
or if the signs are shed intermittently or if I treat for
the problem and believe I have eliminated it, but it still
exists in small numbers. However, it is better than doing
nothing and it is a good alternative to treating every bird
with every medication you can think of regardless of whether
or not he has the problem.
For those
without any desire to use a microscope, using drugs in your
quarantine procedure may be the wise course of action. It
is not a course of action that I like, but after seeing what
might be coming in with new birds from quality sources, I
cannot advise against it. The decision, of course, lies with
the fancier - just be aware that these problems may be coming
in more often than you might think.
But what
about bacterial problems and viruses and such? Those who are
really serious can learn how to do gram stains and cultures
and such, which may help with some problems. This takes a
lot more work and expertise as well as specialized materials.
However, in my experience, these problems act more quickly
and symptoms show up more quickly. Thus, if you quarantine
for an adequate period of time, these problems should surface
before the bird is introduced to your flock. In one month,
many of these problems will have surfaced. In two months,
most of the rest of the potential problems will have surfaced.
There is always the exception as well as the potential of
a bird being a carrier of a specific problem - not getting
sick itself but capable of spreading the problem to other
birds. Thus, there never are any guarantees no matter how
long you quarantine. The risk will always be there, it is
just a question of how far are you willing to go to reduce
it even further.
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